The rest of the story at Murchison Falls

Since I am blogging for my own pleasure and to help me in recalling specific events in the future, I need to finish the story of my weekend getaway at Murchison Falls.
I checked with many tour companies and compared resorts, prices etc before settling on the one that was right for me.

At the time I booked tented accommodation was the only kind available.

I am recalling when I was at Masai Mara and stayed in a luxury safari tent complete with tiled bathroom, hot running water, beds turned down with a hot water bottle in the cool of the evening, plus a hot drink and snack early morning before a safari drive. Aah! So lovely.

This tent can't be compared. Before I left a friend who had already been there described it as rustic. Very accurate. I was literally only there to sleep and found it adequate and comfortable.

Do you remember a few blogs ago, I told you about the bat problem I had in my apartment and how I prayed Psalm 91? Well that Psalm proved invaluable again at the camp.

Yes, what you see are wart hogs and yes, that is a tent that they are near.

We were informed not to keep anything in the tent that had a sweet odor, such as body lotions, any snack foods etc as the animals DO come and hunt for food.

I didn't even put my my Key Lime Pie lip gloss on before I went to sleep. I took the warning seriously. Unfortunately some other campers weren't careful and a wart hog tore a hole in the side of the tent and took some food. Psalm 91 verse 9-10 says that if God is my dwelling and refuge then no harm would befall me and no disaster would come near my tent!  As I put my head on the pillow, I put my trust in His Word. I also had to trust as I made a run for the bathroom in the dead of night, with my headlamp on.

The dining area was pleasant for conversation and watching the sun rise on the horizon over Murchison National Park and the Nile below.

The meal servings were huge and very reasonably priced.

Now if it's luxury you are looking for, then may I recommend a night's stay at the lodge where the Queen Mother stayed in 1952?
It only costs $600 a night! A bargain right?

It does come with a wonderful view of the Nile River below and your personal cook and maid service.

Anyway, something to keep in mind if you are so inclined.

Here's a bit of trivia I found fascinating. This site has a blue marker as it designates the spot where author, Ernest Hemingway and his wife, escaped a plane crash on the bank of the Nile in 1954.

 A few days later they were in a second plane crash while trying to fly out of northern Uganda.
At this point they resorted to road travel. Can't imagine why.

Hemingway's reputation says that he was a heavy drinker, but our guide was quick to tell us that he helped many people during his visit to Uganda.

No post would be complete without some bird photos. This is the Black-headed Weaver. They were everywhere at the campsite, even sitting on the chairs next to us.

These are the ones that make the tiny round nests I showed in a previous blog from the Nile ferry trip.

I know I am jumping around a bit with topics but didn't want to forget the most delicious fresh  pineapple snacks we were offered at the falls and then again during our game drive. Thanks to our driver/guide, Hassan. So juicy and sweet, literally dripping down our arms.

I was keeping a close eye on what was in close range and line of sight. Huge hippos were not more than 30 meters from us. I have photos but don't want to show you hippos again.

So let's go on to this interesting creature. Bet you can't guess what it is?

Let me introduce you to the Abyssinian Ground Horn-bill. He's so strange looking and somewhat awkward.  Kind of has a turkey like appearance.

This is a male with his red inflatable throat pouch.

Well I could go on and on, it's all so fascinating but I have already posted 8 photos on this blog alone so better stop while I'm ahead and you're not too bored.  If you see me, just ask about my other bird photos, and I'll be happy to show you.  Maybe I should write a travel guide? Hmm..

Community Immersion

Today I feel I reached the pinnacle of immersion in my community. As an outsider (muzungu) you try to fit in and have a certain sense of belonging in the community where you live.

Kampala City Council launched a community clean up program. Yange means my, so basically, Kampala, my city.

Along with various branches of public services, like water and sanitation, police and community leaders gathered today in the town of Gaba to clean up.

It's a momentous undertaking. People don't see their responsibility to clean the environment around them, nor do they seem to care that it greatly affects their health.

We started assembling in groups shortly after 8 am, and armed ourselves with brooms, spades and rakes and of some gloves.

You can't see my boots, but rest assured they are on.

We had to first be instructed on how this was going to work.

We would sweep, rake, dig and pick up rubbish ( otherwise known as trash if you're American). Next we would put it in a large sack.

The guy pictured here, stopped his announcement in Luganda and addressed me as "Muzungu", telling me the word, "kabeya", means sack. I said it repeatedly for the next several hours. ( LOL )

The kabeyas were stacked along the roadside so the Kampala Council trucks could pick them up.

Let me tell you you, it was hot, it was sweaty, it was smelly, it was dirty. It was interesting.

Sometimes plastic bags and old clothes were actually buried in the dirt with just the ends sticking out. Life just goes on and things get covered up.

I'm glad we had a little cloud cover and that we started early.

This crew in their white matching shirts all work for Kampala Water and Sanitation.

I liked the back of their shirts which said " Water is Life, Sanitation is Health". As  Health Director  for my organization, I couldn't agree more.

It was great to see everyone pitching in. Some needed a little coaxing but in the end it had a community feel and everyone ended with "Well done!" and high fives.

After all that picking, bending, dragging etc. I was one tired muzungu this afternoon.

Anyway that's a glimpse of life in Gaba community today.

The Big Year

In 2011, a film called " The Big Year", starring Jack Black caught my attention on one of my many overseas flights. If you are a bird enthusiast or you saw the film you will understand some of the following comments, if not, sorry :-(

After an exciting 4 hour safari, it was time for a break and recharge before our afternoon boat cruise on the Nile.
New Zealand friend, Rosalie, and I opted to stop for lunch at Paraa Lodge.

 I'm enjoying a cappuccino by the pool before the buffet lunch on the balcony upstairs, overlooking the Nile. I know, it's tough, but someone has to do it, right?

Here comes our ferry boat! Over here guys, don't forget us.

Rosalie and I were picked up by the boat and we all rolled on down the river toward Murchison Falls.

The stretch of river between Paraa Lodge and the falls is where the famous film, " African Queen" was set, starring Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn in 1951.

Let me just say, I'm not doing a "Big Year", but if I was I would have had a bonanza day today.

The cruise was not relaxing for me but still very enjoyable. My time was spent listening to our guide, taking photos, looking through binoculars, checking my bird guide book and feeling like my head was on a swivel so that I could see everything there was to see.

This photo looks like a postcard but it's from my not very good camera.
This is the beautiful Grey-Hooded Kingfisher. I also saw the brightly colored Malachite Kingfisher, but didn't have time to snap his photo.
God did not hold back when he designed these colors!

Here's the very imposing African Fish Eagle.

They can carry a fish as heavy as 10 kgs.

We were fortunate enough to see a few of these as they sat in trees or hovered overhead looking for their next meal.

These intricate nests are made by the Weaver bird of which there are many varieties.

When I see these kinds of things I really have to wonder how people can believe in the Big Bang theory, Darwinism etc.

Genesis 1:21, "God created every winged bird, according to it's kind. And God saw that it was good."
Amen to that!

Our boat got up fairly close to the falls so that we could take photos and then turned around.

 At this point you definitely want to stay seated and not lean far over the rails. The current looks swift and strong.

All that water crashing down is almost deafening. It is a spectacular sight.

What is this????  It looks like a giant snake coming up out of the water.
Actually it's called an African Darter or Snake Bird.

A few seconds after I took this, it exploded out of the water and flew off showing it's blackish-brown body.

If I could figure out how to put 2 photos side by side I would show you, but alas my blogging skills only go so far.

Lest you think this is just a birding safari on the Nile, let me show you some other critters, not the least being the Nile Crocodile. Can you imagine how much this guy weighs?

He was just sunning himself by the shore as we cruised along. Let's keep cruising I say and let's not get this boat too close, his beady eyes are on us.

Lots of hippos all along the banks and in the river.

Apparently this Hartebeest is not worried about his nearby companions.

The hippos are so large and look like they would have trouble getting out of their own way, but lets not be fooled. These are very dangerous animals.

I missed a few action shots where they had opened their mouths as if to yawn and let me tell you they have some BIG mouths.

I know it's another bird photo, but I just can't resist. These two Pied Kingfishers are so cute sitting there together.

Really, I'm not doing a "Big Year."

There's still the Red Throated Bee Eater, Shadow Billed Stork, Grey Backed Fiscal, White Back Vulture, Jacana and on and on.. Not doing a "Big Year", nope.

It's reassuring to know that the ferry crossings are well monitored. :-)

Seriously?  You guys look like you are expecting Mutiny on the Ferry!

A thoroughly lovely day here at Murchison Falls National Park.

I hope you have enjoyed the ride.

Safari Junkie

Addictions come in all forms. I think I am addicted to safaris!  I just never get tired of God's creativity seen in the beauty and  abundance of variety in animals and birds of Africa.
In 2003 I took my first safari to Masai Mara, Kenya.  Dec 2011 my son joined me at Amboseli in the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro and then last weekend I was blessed to go to Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda.

Our little group of 8 lined up just before 7 am, waiting for the car ferry, pictured here to carry across the Nile to the other side of the park where we would take a 4 hour safari through some of the 3,000 odd square kilometers.

Anticipation was high. At this point we had already gotten glimpses of hippos popping up all across the river.  You'll see more about them later.

When you go on safari anywhere on the continent of Africa you hear the term "The Big Five." This refers to five animals that you want desperately to see and check off your so called list.
This beautiful big guy you see here is one of the 5. We nearly missed him as he was hiding in the grasses.
Imagine staring eyeball to eyeball through the binoculars with Simba?
(Swahili for lion)
He posed nicely for us about 20-30 meters from our van.

Another of the 5 is the Cape Buffalo.
These guys just look mean, there's no two ways about it.

Sometimes you see small birds on their backs living in a symbiotic relationship. It's a strange sight watching birds riding around picking stuff of the backs of these massive animals.

The beautifully elegant giraffe is not one of the 5 but they rank high on my list.

I just love to watch them them walk around, awkward yet graceful at the same time.

Note the little antelopes who share grazing land.

We did see one that had it's foot almost torn off, injured by wire. We were happy to see later in the day that a Vet had been called to help.

Sadly poachers are still  a threat here.

Here you have the amazing Jackson's Hartebeest.

We saw large herds,as well as a few loners that sometimes broke out in a run. So fascinating to watch.

Remember the movie "Lion King" ?

These little guys were so cute. I wonder if they have every heard of the song " When I was a young warthog"?

We saw so many that we got a little blasé about them, "Oh there's another warthog!"

Isn't he/she sweet? This is a Bushbuck. They are very shy. It stood quietly, almost motionless while we took our photos.

We saw many in what you would call the antelope family ( of which there are over 90 different species)

The main ones we saw were the Waterbuck, Bushbuck, Kob antelope,( part of Uganda's Coat of Arms, in the national emblem) Orabe antelope and the Hartebeest

Of course no safari would be complete without elephants. They are also one of the Big Five.

This small group didn't seem to want to move out of our way, so our van and the one behind us had to resort to loud clapping to get them to back off.

It's not a nice feeling when these massive creatures just stare and then start moving toward the vehicle.



Well I could go on and on, but you probably don't have all day just to sit and read this blog. if you have been counting you have realized I have only mentioned 3 of the Big Five. The Rhino is also on the list but is not in this park. They became extinct here during Idi Amin's rule of terror. I did manage to see one in 2003. The remaining animal is the Leopard. Unfortunately it again eluded me. I guess the only thing to do is go on another safari! I'm adding Krueger National Park in South Africa to my bucket list.

Mother's Day Getaway

Sometimes, you just need to get out of Dodge, if you know what I mean. This past weekend was one of those times. I have lived in Uganda for 2 years and had never been to one of the most popular tourist spots. I decided to be refreshed for Mother's Day in a little getaway.

Bright and early, Friday, June 10th, with 8 passengers on board we made our way slowly out of town.

And I do mean slowly. This is one of the roundabouts. As you can see, more than one car is going around the roundabout. It's actually quite normal for there to be 4-5 cars abreast going around!!!!

Once outside of Kampala, the road north was actually pretty decent.

About half way, we stopped in the town of Masindi, so our driver, Hassan, could pick up some supplies such as the pineapples you can see on the top of the van.

As the kilometers clicked by we got to know our fellow travelers. We are a mixed bag. That's one of the things I enjoy about traveling around and living here, so many interesting people from many different backgrounds.

Our group included, 2 Brits, 2 Kiwis, 2 Americans, 1 German and I opted to be the token Australian :-)

After a 5 1/2 hour drive we made it into Murchison Falls National Park. We were all hot and hungry. The stretch of road just inside the park entrance to the top of the falls was like a chinese fire drill. You see there are an abundance of Tsetse Flies. They are the ones responsible for Sleeping Sickness. We were told they no longer carry the disease, ( hope that's true) but their sting is apparently painful. The driver told us when he slows down, "close the windows". When he speeds up, "open the windows."We had some intense moments when a few got in, but we found creative ways to annihilate them.

 Aah! Nothing like a nap in the midst of raging waters.

I have had the privilege of visiting Iguazu Falls in South America, and Niagara in the U.S.A and several other smaller ones and although Murchison doesn't compare in size or volume it's still very impressive.

There is just something amazing about all that power being unleashed, rushing over rocks and falling from heights.

I am glad that God set boundaries for the waters.

Now for a bit of touristy type information for those who might be interested.
The Nile River funnels through a narrow cleft in the Rift Valley Escarpment. The river splits in 2 for a short while becoming the Victoria Nile and the Albert Nile. There are 2 different types of parkland because of this.
In the days of Idi Amin, the park was closed to visitors in 1972. After he was ousted in 1979, surveys showed the huge toll his rule of terror had taken on the wildlife in the park.

There is so much more to tell but I'll finish here today and continue later so come on back for the rest of the story.

African Nights

Have you ever felt like you are part of an episode of National Geographic or could see yourself in the background of one of N.G magazine photos?
Recently I have been having that feeling a lot. I first experienced this whole awe of going to and being in Africa in 2003. I can remember clearly flying over the Sahara Desert, looking out at the vastness of it, and saying to my mission team friends, " We're going to Africa! "

During that 2003 trip to northern Kenya and the refugee camp where I first had the privilege to minister to South Sudanese,I  also had the opportunity to go on safari in Masai Mara. After a very full day, seeing all kinds of animals and getting to have "tea" gazing across the Serengeti, we were headed back to camp when God showed off and placed a double rainbow in the sky. I thought I would burst. My very being was flooded with the goodness of God and getting to see the absolute beauty of his creation was more than I could stand.

A few nights ago, I had similar feelings and thoughts.  It occurred to me anew, I LIVE in AFRICA!


The original University of Kampala campus is very close to my apartment, in fact the photo you see here is taken

   

from the balcony off my bedroom. The dorms are in the multi storied building and the official, learning part of the campus in the lower white building.

Despite what you might think, there are usually no loud noises going far into the night. The students come from all over East Africa.

Several times a year they host different campus events.



 One such event is apparently a drum contest. In the dark of night I  heard all kinds of drums accompanied by sounds of obvious enjoyment and participation of the audience. The women make a sound in their throats that I really can't explain and I'm sure a musicologist could probably give it a name, but it's distinctly African. The outside air was warm, a typical night for this time of year. When I turned out my bedroom light, I became aware that the room was filled with light. When I went over to the window, I was awed by the moon shining brightly and sending a glow across Lake Victoria. Wow! I get to LIVE on Lake Victoria!!

The brilliance of the night sky in Africa is best demonstrated in this photo taken using time lapse photography in Yei, South Sudan. In earlier blog posts, I mentioned the photographer, Adam. One night he set his camera up in the center of the compound and let it run all night. It was amazing to see millions of stars (Genesis 1:16 says God made the stars and set them in place) When I read Psalm 8, which coincidentally my son had to memorize for kindergarten graduation ceremony, I love verses 3-4,
"When I consider your heavens, the work of your fingers, the moon, the stars, which you have set in place, what is man that you are mindful of him, the son of man that you care for him?" This kind of dissuades you from being full of yourself :-(

Anyway, back to the drumming. I have been watching and listening most of the morning. Housework was more fun when I could dance around to the beat of the drums.

These people have been practicing movement to music. From this distance it looks like they are telling a story. I am fascinated. Maybe the big event is tonight!! Can't wait.

I think I need to go over and investigate a little more, so I'll be right back. Check later for the next blog.

Fish Market

Several months back when I was walking in the neighborhood. I came across a small fishing boat.

The boat owner had just pulled in to the shore off Lake Victoria, and
was selling fresh fish to some local women vendors.

It's hard to see, but the fish are actually just lying right in the bottom of the boat.

The color of the water isn't exactly inviting.




I've been wanting to go to the weekly market in Gaba, which is a a 5 minute walk down the road, but have lacked courage to show my white face and know that I may be over charged. I found out that one of the ladies at my Tuesday evening prayer group, who happens to live very close to me, was going to go, so I asked if she would be my guide.

My friend and her 2 little boys ages 3  and 4 set out on our fishy adventure.

As we reached this point in our walk down towards the fish market my senses were assaulted and permeated with all that is Africa.

You can see goats, dead fish, dried fish, fish heads, fish skins, large storks, vultures, trash, smoke and dust.

And then there are the smells....

My friend, Tocks, has a lady who helps her around the house named, Anna, she was kind enough to step in to help me with the purchase of my Tilapia.

She first checked behind the gills and inside the mouth to make sure it was fresh. Some of the fish were still moving so I was convinced!
We settled on the price of 18,000 Shillings, so about $6.92.

Now I was feeling none to keen on taking that fish home with the head, bones and eyes so it was necessary to get it filleted.

The cost for filleting was 38 cents!!
I would have paid double. There were fish scales everywhere and if I had a close up of the table they cut it up on I feel most of you would not think too highly of it.

Now for the bargain price of 8 cents I have my fish put in a plastic bag to carry home.

We made out way through the market to look for some other things. Everything is all mixed together. Here you see stalls where people are cooking chapatis etc and right in front women are selling used clothes.

Tocks' youngest son, who is 3 and  just a month younger than my grandson, is helping decide on which lemons look best.

I ended up buying papaya and watermelon as well.

Tocks, is part Nigerian, part British and married to a Ugandan. I love listening to her British accent, we''ll be getting together for tea sometime soon :-)

This waterfront area is bigger than I had realized and so full of life and color.

Back at home I weighed my fillets and have approx. 1 1/2 pounds. Total cost $7.38.

Not sure what the prices are at HEB supermarket these days but this is so much more interesting than the sterile environment, gloved hands, quality controlled temperatures and clean, white wrapping paper. Let's not forget the signs that tell employees to wash their hands.


Now about that lesson I just wrote on Typhoid. Hmmm...
Well at least I will be thoroughly cooking my fish. I just need to decide what to make. Will it be fish tacos, fish strips, baked fish or Fish Masala. Bet you wish you  were coming for dinner, huh?

Last look at Yei, South Sudan

After a pancake and french toast breakfast by my wonderful host Simone, she drove me to the airport. It's funny how things work sometimes. We picked up the Eagle Air representatives on our way, to take them to the airstrip so they could check us in. Their vehicle was being repaired. Eagle Air only flies into Yei  3x a week on Tues., Thurs. and Sat.
Yei has been a very strategic location since it is close to the borders of Uganda and DRC. The prevalent languages are Kakwa, Bari and Juba Arabic.

This is the River Yei. If you look carefully you can see some people on the banks. They are doing washing and collecting water.

According to history, British missionaries, set up a clinic somewhere along the river banks  and the town was born.

Remember in a previous blog post I told you that these snails like to inhabit the bottom of the rivers and cause terrible health problems.

Every time I see people bathing and children playing around the water I think about the consequences of seemingly innocent activities.

Due to lack of understanding on basic health issues and no other real options for bathing or washing, people still go to the river.

Well here it is the mighty Yei airstrip!
The main building is a concrete structure with 2 rooms.

 The immigration people come out from town for Eagle Air flights that are arriving, but they don't bother for MAF flights, like the one I came in on. In that case you present yourself in town at their office so you can get a stamp in your passport.

After we had taken the photo we heard others say staff got vey upset with some other (Kawaja's or  foreigners) who took photos and wanted to take their cameras. Oops!